Here’s another cool mountain bike gadget!
I realize that this post is not about mountain bike accessories, however it does fall into the category of cool mountain bike gadgets which I love so I thought you would too.
This Outback chainless mountain bike by Dynamic Bycicles caught my eye. Have you ever been pissed off trying to keep your chain clean and lubricated - I know I have.
Its lightweight as its made of aluminum and has a completely encased drive shaft inside aluminum tubing.
The driveshaft gearing operates similarly to the way your car driveshaft works. Although it only has 8 speeds, the gearing is apparently set up with a range similar to a traditional 24 speed mountain bike.
I’m not sure if this thing would cut it out on the technical singletrack up the side of a mountain as I have never taken one out for a ride but but it would sure be great out on a Sunday ride with the family on light trails.
Just imagine, no straw grass or branches caught up in your chain or gears anymore and very little maintenance as you have trying to keep your exposed chain clean dry and lubed.
You can check it out for yourself at
http://www.dynamicbicycles.com/
little trial session
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Technorati Tags: bike, mountain, MTB, trial, VTT
my mountain bike wont change from the centre cog on the main gear section(ie 1,2,3)it changes ok on the little cogs at the rear but wont move on the main one just sounds like its nearly there but wont.any one know how i can fix this?
also i want to stiffen my front forks as they bounce all over can i do this manually myself or will i need a pro to do it?i cant see any adjusters just two black nuts at the top end(bar end)
the bike is a cbr dirt hog
thanks,thanks and triple thanks
The deraileur adjustment screw will help set the tension in order to snap your chain onto the right cog. There could be other issues that hinder chain movement. Make sure you didn't bend or break any teeth on that ring. General wear on the chain rings can cause your chain to skip or not catch when shifting. replacing a chain ring can end up getting a little pricey as you usually wear your drive train fairly evenly, the chain and rings get into a groove, so to speak. So when one piece of the drive train gets replaced the "groove" is upset, sometimes resulting in the need to replace rings and chains altogether. But start with the tension adjustment. And remember to adjust with smail turns. Getting over zealous with your adjustments will throw the front deraileur out of whack further.
As for the forks, I am not sure what kind you have and how the adjust tension, but you can probably find the specs online and figure out how to adjust them yourself. Forks adjust a little easier than deraileurs, in my opinion. At least, a not so finely tuned fork is a little easier to overcome while riding than a not finely tuned deraileur. Best of luck with your fixes.
an extreme Mountain Bike Crash with 170 kph
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I have just bought a new mountain bike with 8-speeds and I just want to ride it in the city back and forth to work and just for pleasure. What is the best gear to use, so I don't have to keep switching gears while I am riding?
the one that feels best for you.
you'll get all sorts of advice about cadence (how fast you pedal) and hills and shifting and stuff, but it all comes down to what works for you.
if your knees start to hurt, switch to an easier / lower gear and pedal faster for the same ground speed.
if pedaling is too easy and it feels like you have to pedal fast to keep up, switch to an easier / harder gear.
simple.
Guy falls off a mountain whilest ‘attempting’ to cross a gap
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I have a 21 speed mongose mountin bike. Recenly the rear sproket teeth broke off so some of my gears don't work like 5th, 7th, and 4th. I have a new one that I can put on it but I don't know how to take it off and put the new one back on. (This is one of those cheep walmart bikes so its a simple design).
Thanks for the help!
Taking a cassette off requires a cassette removal tool, a big adjustable wrench and a chain whip.
There is no standard for cassette removal tools. Park Tool makes an entire line of the things to fit all the different cassettes made. Best thing to do is take your rear wheel to your bike shop and ask them which tool you need.
You should read the Park Tool Page on replacing cassettes before you start this project. Here is the link:
http://parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=48
Keep in mind, shifting may be rough if you only replace the cassette. The cogs of the cassette, chain and chain rings all wear in together. If you replace one part of the drive train, it may not mesh well with the old, worn components. Be ready to replace the chain and chain rings if shifting is rough and/or unpredictable.
Hope this helps.
Small ring at the front and 1,2,3,4 at the back on steep hills
Middle ring and all 7 at the back on normal flattish ground
Big ring at the front and 5,6,7 at the back for flat road and downhill.
Thats roughly what you are looking for, it's all down to personal preference when you get used to them. Look to be spinning your legs at about 80 rpm in each gear unless it's really tough uphill when it will be all you can manage.
A guy on his mountain bike (trials bike) jumping off of things, balancing, spinning around, etc.
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Technorati Tags: bike, freestyle, mountain, trial, trials, trick
I'm looking for a relatively inexpensive bike ($150-$200). Some of the bikes that I like have a section on the top of the frame where the cables that connect the shifter to the gears are exposed. Some of the cheaper bikes have 100% of these cables sheathed in rubber, while some of the more expensive ones have the 'exposed' area. Is this a good thing/bad thing/doesn't matter?
The bike with less cable jacket shifts better.
That's because the cable jackets are prone to shrink or stretch with temperature or for no good reason whatsoever and this throws off indexing.
So, for indexing shifting to work at all reliably, it is good that some of the cable is carried by the frame.
100% cable jacket is a maintenance nightmare.
Hope that helps!
